Trincomalee

Trincomalee, often called Trinco, is the main town of the north-east coast. It has one of the finest deep-water natural harbours in the world, which has drawn traders, navies and pilgrims for more than two thousand years. Today visitors come for the long beaches of Uppuveli and Nilaveli, snorkelling at Pigeon Island, whale watching, and the clifftop Koneswaram Temple.

History

Trincomalee was an important Hindu pilgrimage site from early times, and it appears in old texts as Gokanna. The Tamil name Thirukonamalai, the sacred hill of Konam, became Trincomalee in English. Its harbour changed hands many times. The Portuguese destroyed the original Koneswaram temple in 1622 and used its stones to build a fort. The Dutch took the fort in 1639 and rebuilt it as Fort Frederick, and it passed between the Dutch, French and British before the British took control in 1795. During the Second World War the harbour was a major base for the British Eastern Fleet, and it remains a base for the Sri Lanka Navy and Air Force today.

Main sights

Fort Frederick and Koneswaram

Fort Frederick is still used by the army, but visitors can walk or drive through it to Swami Rock, where the rebuilt Koneswaram Temple, dedicated to Shiva, stands high above the sea. Pujas are held several times a day. Beside the temple, a deep cleft in the cliff is known as Ravana's Cleft, and the cliff edge as Lover's Leap.

Museums and temples

The Maritime and Naval History Museum, in a restored Dutch building, covers the harbour's history and marine life. Hoods Tower Museum, inside the naval dockyard, has guns and wartime relics. Velgam Vehera, an ancient Buddhist site north-west of town, dates back to the early centuries AD. The Kali Kovil on the road to the fort is one of the town's busiest Hindu temples.

Kanniya hot wells

About 8 km inland, the Kanniya hot wells are a group of small springs, each said to have a different temperature, linked by legend to King Ravana. The Trincomalee War Cemetery, on the road north, holds graves from the Second World War.

Beaches

Uppuveli, just north of town, and Nilaveli, about 15 km further, have long, calm beaches with clear water in season. Kuchchaveli, further north, is quieter. Marble Beach, south of the harbour and managed by the Air Force, has shallow, gentle water. See Trincomalee beaches.

Pigeon Island and diving

About a kilometre off Nilaveli, Pigeon Island, a national park since 2003, has shallow coral reefs with reef fish, turtles and blacktip reef sharks. Boats run from Nilaveli beach, and a park fee applies. Dive centres also visit Swami Rock and nearby wrecks. The best diving is from about April to October.

Whale watching

From about May to October, boats leave Trincomalee and Nilaveli to look for blue and sperm whales in the deep water off the coast, along with spinner dolphins. See whale and dolphin watching in Trincomalee. Eagles' Golf Links, run by the Air Force near Marble Beach, is the east coast's golf course.

Getting there

Trincomalee is about 260 km from Colombo, around five to six hours by road via Kurunegala and Dambulla. An overnight train runs from Colombo Fort, and buses run day and night. It is about two and a half hours from Sigiriya and Dambulla, so it is often combined with the Cultural Triangle.

When to go and how long to stay

The east coast has the opposite season to the south and west. The best time is from about April to September, when the sea is calm and clear. The north-east monsoon brings heavy rain and rough seas from about November to January. Three or four nights give time for the beaches, Pigeon Island and the town's sights.

Food

The town's markets and small restaurants serve the flavours of the north and east: crab and prawn curries, string hoppers, dosa and vadai for breakfast, and rice with sambar, pickles and sour lime chutney. Seeni sambol, a sweet onion relish, and hoppers are easy to find in the evening, and beach restaurants in Uppuveli and Nilaveli grill fresh fish to order.

Practical tips

Dress modestly in town and at temples, as the east coast is more conservative than the south. At Koneswaram, shoes are left at the entrance and men may be asked to remove shirts in the inner shrine. Book whale watching and Pigeon Island trips with a licensed operator, and do not touch the coral or feed the fish. Most beach hotels can arrange tuk-tuks and boats.

Where to stay and eat

Most beach hotels and guesthouses are in Uppuveli and Nilaveli, a short tuk-tuk ride from town. The food reflects the area's Tamil and Muslim communities: crab curry, fish curries, hoppers, dosa and kottu, often with sambar and pickles. Compare hotels in Trincomalee.