Polonnaruwa

Polonnaruwa was Sri Lanka's capital from the late 10th to the 13th century, after Anuradhapura fell. Its ruins, beside a huge ancient reservoir, are more compact and better preserved than those of Anuradhapura, and include some of the finest stone carving in the country. The ancient city is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the highlights of the Cultural Triangle.

History

After the Chola invasion from South India destroyed Anuradhapura in the late 10th century, the Cholas ruled from Polonnaruwa. King Vijayabahu I drove them out in 1070 and kept it as his capital. The city reached its peak under Parakramabahu I in the 12th century, who unified the island, built monasteries, palaces and vast irrigation works, and is remembered as one of Sri Lanka's greatest kings. His successor Nissanka Malla added more monuments. Further invasions and political decline led to the city being abandoned in the 13th century, and the jungle covered it until archaeologists cleared it in the colonial period.

Main sights

Royal Palace group

The walls of Parakramabahu's palace still rise high, with holes for the beams of upper floors. Nearby are the Council Chamber, with carved elephant friezes and lion figures, and the royal bathing pool fed through stone channels.

The Quadrangle

The Dalada Maluwa, or Quadrangle, is the heart of the ancient city. The circular Vatadage, with its carved moonstones, guardstones and four Buddha statues, is one of the finest buildings of its kind. Around it are the Hatadage and Atadage, both linked to the Tooth Relic; the Gal Potha, a huge stone slab inscribed with Nissanka Malla's deeds; the Lotus Mandapa with stems carved like lotus stalks; the Thuparama image house; and the stepped Satmahal Prasada.

Northern monuments

Further north are the Rankoth Vehera, a large dagoba built by Nissanka Malla; the Lankatilaka image house with its towering walls and headless standing Buddha; and the white Kiri Vehera, still with its original plaster. The Gal Vihara has four Buddha figures cut from a single granite face, including a 14 metre reclining Buddha, regarded as masterpieces of Sri Lankan sculpture. Further on are the Lotus Pond and the Tivanka image house, whose murals survive.

South of the city

The Pothgul Vihara was a monastery library, and nearby stands a striking rock-cut statue of a bearded figure holding a manuscript, often said to be Parakramabahu I.

Parakrama Samudra

The Parakrama Samudraya, the Sea of Parakrama, is a vast reservoir built by Parakramabahu I by linking older tanks. It still irrigates the surrounding rice fields and is beautiful at sunset.

Tickets and tips

Foreign adults pay US$30, half price for children (Central Cultural Fund rates, October 2026). Buy the ticket at the museum near the rest house, which is worth a visit first for its models of the city. The site is spread over several kilometres, so rent a bicycle or hire a tuk-tuk, and start early to avoid the heat. Shoes and hats come off at the shrines; wear clothes that cover shoulders and knees. A guided Polonnaruwa day tour helps bring the ruins to life.

Getting there

Polonnaruwa is about 220 km from Colombo, around five hours by road, and about an hour from Habarana and Sigiriya. Trains on the Batticaloa line stop at Polonnaruwa, and buses run from Dambulla and Habarana.

When to go and how long to stay

Polonnaruwa is in the dry zone and is hot for most of the year. Most rain falls from about October to January. One full day, or a long morning, covers the main ruins; many people visit from a base in Sigiriya or Habarana.

Further afield

Medirigiriya, about an hour north, has a well-preserved circular Vatadage on a rock outcrop, often compared with the one in Polonnaruwa. Dimbulagala, south-east of the city, is a mountain with forest hermitages used by monks for many centuries. Both are quiet compared with the main ruins.

Suggested plan

Start at the museum at opening time, then cycle to the Royal Palace group and the Quadrangle while it is still cool. After a break, continue north to Rankoth Vehera, Lankatilaka, Kiri Vehera and the Gal Vihara, finishing at the Lotus Pond and Tivanka image house. In the late afternoon, take a safari at Minneriya or Kaudulla, or watch sunset over the Parakrama Samudra.

Where to stay and eat

There are guesthouses and hotels in the new town and beside the reservoir. Simple restaurants serve rice and curry. Nearby, Wasgamuwa and Minneriya national parks are within reach for an elephant safari.