The north of Sri Lanka is a different world from the beaches and hills most visitors see. Tamil is the main language, Hindu temples outnumber Buddhist ones, and the food is spicier and full of seafood. After decades of conflict, the region has reopened to travellers, and it rewards those who make the long trip.
Jaffna
Jaffna is the cultural capital of the north. Visit the golden Nallur Kandaswamy temple, walk the walls of the Dutch fort, and see the rebuilt public library. Day trips go to Point Pedro, the Keerimalai springs and the long sands of Casuarina Beach.
The islands
A chain of causeways links Jaffna to the islands of the Palk Strait. From the jetty at Kurikadduwan, boats run to Nainativu, with its temples, and to Delft, known for wild ponies, coral-stone walls and a giant baobab. Ferries are basic and timetables change, so start early and confirm the return.
Mannar
Mannar is a long, dry island in the north-west. Drive to Talaimannar to look out over Adam's Bridge, see the island's huge baobab tree, and look for flamingos and waders in the lagoons between about October and March.
Getting there
Jaffna is about seven hours by road from Colombo; the train is an alternative. Mannar is around six hours from Colombo. Allow at least three nights for the north.
When to go
The north is driest from about February to September. The north-east monsoon, roughly October to January, brings heavy rain and more cancelled ferries.
Read our Jaffna guide.
Respect and safety
At Hindu temples, remove shoes, and men may be asked to remove their shirts. Some areas still have military sites; follow signs and do not photograph them.