Hikkaduwa

Hikkaduwa is one of Sri Lanka's longest-established beach towns, about 20 km north of Galle. A strip of hotels, guesthouses, cafes, surf shops and bars runs for several kilometres along the coast road. Its draws are a coral reef just offshore, protected as a marine national park, good surf in season, and a lively evening scene.

The reef and marine park

Hikkaduwa's reef starts near the fishing harbour and runs south for a few kilometres, a short way off the beach. It is protected as Hikkaduwa National Park, the country's first marine national park, and is home to many species of hard coral and reef fish, as well as green sea turtles that often feed in the shallows. The reef was damaged by coral bleaching and by the 2004 tsunami and is slowly recovering. Glass-bottomed boats let non-swimmers see the coral, and snorkelling is easy from the beach in calm conditions; see diving and snorkelling in Hikkaduwa. Please do not touch or feed the turtles.

Diving

Dive centres offer PADI courses and trips to reefs and rocks such as Kiralagala, Godagala and Black Coral Point, as well as wrecks nearby. Conditions suit beginners in the calm season, and more experienced divers can go deeper.

Surfing

Hikkaduwa has several breaks, including a reef break known as the Main Reef and beach breaks further south. Waves are best from about November to April. Board rental and lessons are easy to find. See surfing in Hikkaduwa.

Other sights

Tsunami memorials

The 2004 tsunami hit this coast hard. At Peraliya, just north of town, a memorial and the Tsunami Honganji Viharaya, with a tall standing Buddha modelled on the Bamiyan statues, recall the many lives lost when a train was swept away. The small Tsunami Photo Museum at Telwatta tells the story through photographs and personal accounts.

Temples

Seenigama Viharaya stands on a small island just offshore to the north and is visited by people seeking justice from the god Devol. Totagamu Rajamaha Viharaya at Telwatta is linked to an ancient centre of learning, and Kumarakanda Viharaya, rebuilt after the Portuguese period, has Dutch-era touches. Gangarama Maha Viharaya, a short way inland, is known for murals said to be the work of a single painter.

Turtles, lake and gems

Turtle hatcheries along the coast north of town release hatchlings into the sea. Hikkaduwa Lake, inland, is good for a boat trip and bird watching. At Meetiyagoda, between Hikkaduwa and Ambalangoda, moonstone mines show how stones are dug, cut and polished.

Getting there and around

Hikkaduwa is about 100 km south of Colombo, around one and a half to two hours by the Southern Expressway, and about 30 minutes from Galle. Trains on the coastal line stop in town, and buses run along the Galle Road. Tuk-tuks wait along the main strip.

When to go and how long to stay

The season runs from about November to April, when the sea is calm and clear for snorkelling and diving. From about May to October the south-west monsoon brings rain and rough seas, and many businesses close or slow down. Temperatures are usually between 25 and 31°C. Two to four nights is typical.

Food and nightlife

The strip has everything from rice and curry and roti shops to cafes, pizza and burgers, and seafood is grilled to order in the evenings. Street food is easy to find; see local street food in Hikkaduwa. Beach bars host parties on some nights in season, and Hikkaduwa is livelier after dark than most south coast towns; see nightlife in Hikkaduwa.

Dodanduwa and Ratgama

South of Hikkaduwa, the fishing village of Dodanduwa has an island hermitage and boat trips on the Ratgama lagoon, with mangroves, birds and small islands. Kumarakanda Viharaya stands on a hill above the coast road there, reached by a long flight of steps.

Practical tips

Watch out for strong currents outside the reef, especially early and late in the season. Keep a respectful distance from the turtles on the beach; feeding them seaweed or other food harms their health. The Galle Road through town carries fast buses, so take care crossing and when riding a scooter.

Where to stay

Accommodation runs from surf hostels and guesthouses to mid-range and resort hotels along several kilometres of coast. The central stretch is busiest; Narigama and Thiranagama to the south are a little quieter.

Day trips

Galle Fort is about 30 minutes south, Ambalangoda's mask workshops about 20 minutes north, and the Madu Ganga river and Bentota within an hour. See also Galle and Unawatuna.