St. Mary´s Church

St Mary's Church on Grand Street is the best-known church in Negombo, a town so strongly Catholic that it is often called "Little Rome". It is one of the largest Catholic churches in Sri Lanka, and its pale front, with columns and a tall central tower, is easy to spot in the town centre.

History

Catholicism took root along this coast during Portuguese rule in the 16th century, especially among the fishing communities, and churches have stood on this site for centuries; the present building is said to be the fifth. The foundation stone was laid in 1874, the church was consecrated in 1907, and work on the building continued until about 1922. It was built in a neoclassical style, with columns, arches and plain walls.

The painted ceiling

The highlight is inside. In the mid-20th century the local artist N. S. Godamanne, a Buddhist, was asked to paint the ceiling and upper walls. Working for long periods on high scaffolding, he produced a series of large, colourful scenes from the life of Christ, including the Nativity, the Sermon on the Mount, the calming of the storm and the Last Supper, along with scenes from Genesis. His style blends European religious painting with a Sri Lankan feel, and many people compare the effort to the Sistine Chapel. Statues of saints line the upper walls, and one of the altars was imported from Europe.

A working church

St Mary's is an active parish church with daily services and large congregations on Sundays and feast days. Mass, often in Sinhala, is a moving experience, but if you attend, sit quietly at the back and do not take photos during the service.

When to go

Weekday mornings or afternoons outside service times are quietest, and the midday light shows the ceiling colours best. Visiting hours vary; ask at the church office.

How long it takes

Twenty to forty minutes, longer if you want to study the paintings.

Getting there

Grand Street is in central Negombo, a short tuk-tuk ride from the beach hotels on Lewis Place and Porutota Road, and about 20 to 30 minutes from the airport.

Practical tips

• Cover shoulders and knees, and remove hats.
• Keep voices low and phones silent.
• Security checks may be in place at entrances; carry only a small bag.
• A donation box helps with upkeep.

Nearby

Combine it with the Lellama fish market in the morning, the Dutch fort and a boat trip on the Negombo lagoon. See things to do in Negombo and Negombo hotels.