Colombo Fort and its Colonial Heritage

Colombo Fort is the city's historic core and its central business district, home to the harbour, the Central Bank, the stock exchange, the World Trade Center and many government offices. The fort walls themselves are gone, but many colonial buildings remain among the modern towers, and a walk here takes you through four centuries of history.

History

The Portuguese first set up a trading post here in the early 16th century, and later expanded it into a fortified base. The Dutch took Colombo in 1656, rebuilt the fort and strengthened it, using its natural position between the sea and the Beira Lake. After the British took control in 1796, the walls were gradually demolished during the 19th century as the city grew. With the expansion of the harbour, the Fort became the commercial centre of Ceylon. After independence, it remained the centre of government until Parliament and some ministries moved to Sri Jayawardenepura Kotte from the 1980s.

Sights to see

Old clock tower and lighthouse

At the junction of Chatham Street and Janadhipathi Mawatha, near the President's House and the Central Bank, this tower served as both a clock tower and a lighthouse. It was designed by Lady Ward, wife of Governor Sir Henry Ward, and completed in the 1850s. When built, it was the tallest structure in Colombo, but as taller buildings rose around it, its light became hard to see, and in 1952 the new Galle Buck lighthouse took over. Its first clock mechanism was made by Dent, the London clockmakers linked to Big Ben, and the clock was replaced in 2013. After the 1996 Central Bank bombing, the area became a high security zone, and the public was only allowed close again in recent years.

President's House

The official residence and workplace of the President of Sri Lanka, in the heart of the Fort. It was built in the late 18th century by Johan van Angelbeek, the last Dutch governor, on the site of a Portuguese church of St Francis. It was later sold to the British government and became the residence of British governors, known as King's House or Queen's House. After independence, it was the residence of the governor-general, and it became the President's House when Sri Lanka became a republic. The adjoining Gordon Gardens, laid out by Governor Sir Arthur Gordon to mark Queen Victoria's golden jubilee, became part of the grounds and are closed to the public. The house is guarded at all times, but you can see it from the street.

Old Parliament building

Facing the sea at Galle Face, this neo-Baroque building was built for the Legislative Council of Ceylon and opened in 1930. It later housed Parliament until the move to Kotte, and it is now the Presidential Secretariat. The British coat of arms on top was replaced after independence with the arms of Ceylon, and in 1972 with those of the republic. Statues of statesmen stand in the front garden, including D.S. Senanayake, the first prime minister, Dudley Senanayake, Sir John Kotelawala and Sir Ponnambalam Ramanathan.

Sambodhi Chaitya

A stupa raised high above the road near the harbour on two crossed concrete arches, built as a landmark for ships entering the port. Unlike most stupas in Sri Lanka, which are dome-shaped, it is shaped like a bell. Over 250 steps lead up to it, and the inside is decorated with paintings of the Buddha's life. From the top, there are wide views of the sea and the harbour.

Galle Buck lighthouse

Built in 1952 on Chaithya Road, opposite the Navy headquarters, this lighthouse is about 29 metres tall and stands on a concrete base with four lion statues around it. Few visitors come here, but it is a good spot for sea views and sunsets.

Central Point and the Economic History Museum

Behind the Dutch Hospital on Chatham Street, this building from 1914, in a Greco-Roman style, was once among the tallest in Colombo. It was damaged by the 1996 Central Bank bombing, abandoned and used by soldiers as a barracks. The Central Bank acquired and restored it, and opened the Economic History Museum here. Exhibits include currency from as far back as the 3rd century BC, a display explaining the problems of barter, coins of Commonwealth countries, a rare Dutch copper coin, old banknote printing machines and paintings. Our earlier guide noted that entry was free and that coins were on sale; check the current hours.

Old Dutch Hospital

Built by the Dutch in the 17th century to treat soldiers of the Dutch East India Company, and thought to be one of the oldest buildings in Colombo Fort. It has large courtyards, thick walls, square pillars and red clay roof tiles. The botanist Paul Hermann, often called the father of Sri Lankan botany, worked here. Under the British, the building was used for other purposes, including as the Fort police station. It was restored in 2011 and is now a precinct of upmarket restaurants, bars and shops, popular in the evening.

Lloyd's Buildings

On Sir Baron Jayathilaka Mawatha, this building was completed in 1908 as the Freudenberg Building, designed by architect E. Skinner, with Renaissance and Baroque features. It housed many companies over the years, including Freudenberg and Co. and the consulate of the United States. The Central Bank later bought it and has refurbished it to conserve its architecture.

St Peter's Church

On Church Street, this is one of the oldest functioning churches in Sri Lanka. A Portuguese Dominican monastery once stood on the site; the Dutch replaced it with the governor's residence, used for council meetings and to receive envoys of the Kandyan kingdom. In 1804, under Governor Frederick North, it was converted into an Anglican church, and it was rebuilt in 1832. Known as the seafarers' church because naval officers and sailors worshipped here, it holds many plaques and memorials, including those to William Tolfrey, who translated the Bible into Pali and Sinhala, Sir Charles Peter Layard, the first Mayor of Colombo, and soldiers of the Worcestershire Regiment who died while serving in Ceylon.

Cargills

Cargills began in 1844 as a small shop in Colombo Fort, known as the House of Cargills, and its red brick building on York Street housed what is often described as the first department store in Sri Lanka. The business became a limited company in 1896 and a public company in 1946, and was acquired by Ceylon Theatres in 1981. Under that ownership, it opened the country's first supermarket chain, and today it also makes food under its own labels. The York Street building is one of the Fort's most recognisable landmarks.

A suggested walking route

Start at the Old Parliament building facing Galle Face, then walk north along Janadhipathi Mawatha to the President's House and the old clock tower. Turn into Chatham Street for Central Point and the Economic History Museum, then continue to the Old Dutch Hospital for a drink or lunch in its courtyard. From there, walk past Lloyd's Buildings and along York Street to Cargills, and on to St Peter's Church on Church Street near the harbour. Finish at the Sambodhi Chaitya and the Galle Buck lighthouse for the sea views, or cross into Pettah for its markets. Roads around the President's House and the harbour may be closed for security, so be ready to take a different route.

How long it takes

Two to three hours on foot.

When to go

Early morning or late afternoon, to avoid the heat. Weekends are quieter, with less traffic.

Getting there

Colombo Fort railway station is at the edge of the district, and the area is easy to reach by tuk-tuk from anywhere in Colombo.

Practical tips

• Some government buildings do not allow photography; follow signs and guards.
• Combine the walk with the streets of Pettah next door.

Join our Colombo city tour, or see Galle Face Green and Colombo hotels.